How I Decided to Trek to Everest Base Camp

Returning to Nepal after twenty years was not a decision I took lightly. It was a journey that had been quietly brewing in my heart for years. Growing up in Nainital, nestled in the foothills of the Indian Himalayas, I always felt an intrinsic connection to the mountains. They were more than just a backdrop to my childhood; they were a symbol of resilience, serenity, and boundless possibilities. The mountains taught me lessons of endurance and humility, and their people, with their unyielding kindness and simplicity, shaped my understanding of human warmth.

Life, as it often does, swept me away from the mountains, but the call of the peaks never left me. As the years passed, I realised the need to reconnect with this part of myself. The idea of trekking to Everest Base Camp became not just a goal but a deeply personal journey, a way to honour the mountains that shaped my spirit and to reignite my bond with them. This resolution grew stronger, and with it, an unshakable determination to make it a reality.

It was during this planning phase that I encountered Mr Dil Gurung of Alpine Ramble Pvt Ltd, a meeting that was nothing short of serendipitous. A simple Google search led me to his company, but what followed was far from ordinary. Our initial discussions unfolded over WhatsApp, where his warmth and professionalism became immediately evident. Dil’s prompt responses and patient answers to my barrage of questions quickly quelled any anxieties I had about embarking on this challenging adventure.

What struck me most was his attention to detail and genuine commitment to tailoring the trip to suit my needs. From the very beginning, Dil ensured that every aspect of the trek was meticulously planned. He took the time to understand my preferences, concerns, and aspirations, weaving them seamlessly into the itinerary. Whether it was selecting the most scenic trails or arranging for comfortable accommodations, his dedication was unparalleled.

Dil’s unwavering availability was a source of immense reassurance. No query was too small, and no concern was dismissed. His responses always carried a sense of enthusiasm and encouragement, making me feel that I was not just another client but someone whose journey genuinely mattered to him. This personalised care made all the difference, transforming my nervous anticipation into eager excitement.

Dil is a self-made man. He formed his company after years of working as a guide himself, gaining hands-on experience of what trekkers endure and cherish in the mountains. This understanding, born from his own journeys, is reflected in every aspect of how he runs Alpine Ramble Pvt Ltd. His passion and empathy stem from his own story, making him uniquely attuned to the needs of his clients.

As the day of departure approached, I found myself reflecting on the significance of this trek. It was not merely a physical challenge but a spiritual one, a pilgrimage to the heart of the mountains that had always been a part of me. The kindness of the people, the grandeur of the peaks, and the camaraderie forged on the trail were all waiting to become memories etched in my soul.

In many ways, meeting Dil was the first step of this incredible journey. His passion for the mountains and his commitment to sharing their beauty with others mirrored my own yearning. Thanks to his guidance, my dream of trekking to Everest Base Camp was no longer a distant vision but an imminent reality. As I prepared to embark on this adventure, I carried with me not only the resolve to conquer the trail but also a profound gratitude for the serendipitous connections that made it possible.

The adventure to Everest Base Camp starts long before you lace up your boots or take hold of your trekking poles. For me, it began amidst the bustling vibrancy of Kathmandu, where navigating Nepali logistics may feel as challenging as the peaks themselves. My route from Kathmandu to Lukla, the gateway to the Khumbu region, became a lesson in flexibility and patience, punctuated with moments of wonder and excitement.

I had envisioned the thrill of landing on Lukla’s famed, precarious runway aboard a fixed-wing aircraft, a rite of passage for most trekkers heading to Everest. But Nepal’s unpredictable weather and equally changeable aviation system had other plans. Flights to Lukla are highly dependent on weather conditions, often resulting in delays or cancellations. They typically depart early in the morning when the skies are clearest, which meant arriving at Kathmandu Domestic Airport at dawn to maximise the chances of flying.

Just days before my departure, severe floods destroyed a crucial bridge between Kathmandu and Manthali, turning a supposed four-hour bus ride into a gruelling ten-hour ordeal.

To avoid these delays, I opted for a chartered helicopter arranged by my tour operator, Alpine Ramble. As the helicopter lifted off, the sprawling Kathmandu Valley came into view, a stunning blend of urban vibrancy and natural beauty. The sight of the beautiful valleys and distant mountain ranges gradually emerging added a sense of awe and anticipation to the journey. Sharing the flight with fellow trekkers, we combined resources to meet the steep cost of $790 USD per person. Any disappointment quickly vanished as the helicopter soared above Kathmandu’s urban sprawl, giving way to the pristine Himalayan landscape. The Mahalangur Himal unfolded before us, its snow-capped peaks shimmering in the morning light, and at the heart of it all stood Everest herself, called Sagarmatha in Nepali, Chomolungma in Tibetan, and Qomolangma in Mandarin. Whatever its name, the mountain’s grandeur commands reverence.

Upon landing in Lukla, I was greeted by Bhupal, my guide for the trek. At just 23 years old, Bhupal was remarkably talented and experienced, having been guiding treks since he was 17. Nearby, I noticed porters preparing to carry heavy loads up into the mountains, their strength and resilience immediately evident. The sight brought back memories of my childhood when porters carried my trunk and bedding up to my school, St Joseph’s College in Tallital-Nainital. After a quick equipment check and a warming cup of chai, we stepped onto the trail and began the first leg of the journey: a trek from Lukla to Phakding.

Every turn in the trail reveals a new postcard-worthy scene: vibrant prayer flags fluttering in the breeze, intricately carved Mani stones bearing Tibetan prayers, and small stupas standing as silent sentinels. Bhupal’s insights brought these features to life. During this trek to Phakding, it became evident that Bhupal was special, though I could not quite pinpoint what it was. I did know, however, that from this point forward, he would not merely be a guide to me, nor would his services feel commodified. His presence seemed to carry a deeper significance, one that I would come to appreciate as the journey unfolded. He explained the spiritual significance of the prayer wheels we passed and the tradition of crossing suspension bridges on the left, leaving the right side free for the spirits believed to inhabit these sacred spaces.

As we descended further, the air grew cooler, and shadows stretched across the valley. By late afternoon, we arrived in Phakding, a quaint village nestled along the Dudh Koshi River. Phakding is a favoured first stop for trekkers, offering a range of simple lodges and welcoming tea houses.

By the time we reached our tea house, the day’s exertion was evident in my legs. Though the route was mostly downhill, the uneven surfaces and steep descents kept me alert. Over dinner, I reflected on the day, the exhilaration of the helicopter ride, the camaraderie of fellow trekkers, and the serene beauty of the landscape. The trek was already revealing itself to be as much about inner exploration as physical endurance.

As the stars appeared in the clear Himalayan sky, I settled into my room, exhausted yet deeply content. The soothing sound of the river lulled me to sleep, and I dreamt of the challenges and wonders that awaited on the trail ahead.