Monday, 11 November 2024

Journey Along Route 42: Iceland’s Volcanic Symphony

Standing at the edge of Seltún's geothermal field, watching steam rise into the crystalline October air, I found myself reflecting on how immensely complex Iceland's landscape truly is. Here, in this remote corner of the North Atlantic, the earth’s inner workings are on full display. The steam vents and bubbling pools before me were striking features of the land, they felt like windows into the planet's soul, a reminder of similar moments I’d experienced in other volcanic regions. But here, the meeting of fire and ice created something uniquely compelling, a story told in steam and frost that revealed the essence of our planet's character.




You see, Iceland is a place where the Earth's tectonic plates are spreading apart along the Mid-Atlantic Ridge at a rate of about 2 centimetres per year, creating a land of extraordinary geological activity. Volcanoes, geysers, and geothermal fields shape the terrain, while glaciers and ice caps carve their way through ancient rock. Beneath it all, Iceland sits above a vast magma reservoir, a plume of molten rock rising from deep within the Earth. This vast mantle plume of molten rock fuels the island’s dramatic volcanic activity and testifies to the immense and untamed energy that shapes this extraordinary landscape. This delicate balance between fire and ice makes Iceland a living laboratory of natural forces, offering a glimpse into the processes that continually reshape our planet.





Looking at Lake Kleifarvatn was a moment of reflection. Standing on its wind-battered shore on a chilly October day, I watched the waves and steam interact, each movement hinting at the impermanence of what we often think of as permanent. This lake, which can lose and regain its waters through unseen forces beneath the surface, felt like a metaphor for the ever-changing nature of the world. In my years of exploring landscapes shaped by natural forces, few places have captivated this constant flux as poetically as this shifting lake.





Even the road itself; Route 42 that commences from Reykjavík towards the south seemed to carry its own story. Each repaired section told a tale of the ongoing struggle between human determination and the power of nature. It reminded me of other roads I’ve travelled, where people persist in building pathways through some of the planet’s most challenging landscapes. There’s something inspiring about this persistence, about our desire to keep moving forward, even as the world shifts beneath our feet.





Throughout my journey, I found myself drawn to the edges of things, where steam meets cold air, where human effort meets raw nature, where the modern world meets ancient forces. These boundaries, where contrasts collide, often reveal the most compelling truths about our connection to the land. It’s in these spaces that the most interesting stories seem to unfold.

Driving southward from Reykjavík, the transition from city to wilderness felt almost theatrical in its abruptness. One moment I was surrounded by the comforts of modern life, and the next I was in a landscape that seemed plucked from another era. Vast fields of lava stretched endlessly, their black surfaces softened by vivid green moss, nature’s first attempt to reclaim this rugged terrain.





The weather along Route 42 seemed to change with every mile. Warm air from geothermal vents collided with icy winds, creating dramatic effects. Dense fog would suddenly appear, wrapping the land in mystery, only to lift moments later to reveal breathtaking views of the volcanic landscape. Snow flurries came and went, each adding a new layer to Iceland’s dynamic elements.

At Seltún, I encountered one of the most striking sights of my journey. The steam vents released their hot breath into the crisp air, while pools of bubbling mud churned with raw energy. The ground was painted in deep reds, bright oranges, and yellows, creating a natural masterpiece that seemed to shift with the changing sunlight.

The road itself was a testament to human resilience. Each patch and repair was evidence of our ongoing effort to coexist with nature’s power. It’s a story I’ve seen in many places, the delicate balance between building and adapting, between our needs and the planet’s movements.





During my 10 days of exploring, I found myself captivated by the interplay between heat and cold. On particularly crisp mornings, the steam from geothermal vents created breathtaking displays, rising in thick columns before being swept away by the wind. These moments, where fire and ice meet so dramatically, seemed to capture Iceland’s essence.





Each journey revealed new details, how the light shifted, how the wind carried different sounds, how the land seemed to breathe. These observations reminded me of how deeply connected everything is, how every element of nature interacts to create the world we see. On Route 42, these connections were written in steam and stone, in ice and fire, in sound and silence.





On my final evening, as the sun dipped low and painted the steam in hues of pink and gold, I reflected on what this journey had taught me. This was a place of discovery, where past and present merged in the rising steam and shifting landscape. Yet Route 42 had its own unique way of illuminating the intricate bond between the earth’s fiery heart and its frozen surface. It was a journey I’d carry with me, long after the road had disappeared behind me.