In the shimmering expanse of the Tyrrhenian Sea, Stromboli stands as both sentinel and enigma. Its perpetually smoking crater symbolises the Earth’s restless power, while the life that flourishes on its slopes tells a story of resilience and reverence. To the islanders, this is no ordinary mountain. It is alive, breathing fire and forging an unbreakable connection between the land and their faith. Here, in this volcanic crucible, belief is not abstract; it is lived, shaped by centuries of tradition, survival, and awe.
This deep relationship between people and mountain sets the stage for a deeper understanding of how life on Stromboli is shaped by the volcano’s presence.
Stromboli is defined by its dual nature, a source of destruction and renewal. Its fertile soil nurtures terraces of olives and vines, while its fiery eruptions remind the villagers of its untameable power. The people who dwell in its shadow do not see the volcano as an adversary to be conquered. Instead, they embrace it as a divine force, one that requires respect and understanding. It is this coexistence, precarious yet profound, that underpins the faith of the islanders.
Faith on Stromboli is a fusion of Roman Catholicism and a deeper, earthbound spirituality. The church is a sanctuary in the village, yet the crater above commands equal reverence. When the mountain rumbles, villagers turn not only to prayer but also to an unspoken pact with the forces that shape their world. It is a belief system born of necessity, woven from equal parts reverence and resilience.
The island’s faith manifests in the everyday rituals and enduring symbols that bridge the physical landscape with the spiritual realm, anchoring the people to both land and spirit. Within the homes of the islanders, small shrines stand as personal testaments to their bond with the land. A lump of sulphur might rest beside a figurine of the Madonna, volcanic stones frame photographs of ancestors, and candles flicker as quiet offerings to both God and the mountain. These altars, though modest, carry deep significance, intertwining family, faith, and the volcanic landscape into a unified and meaningful narrative.
The priest in the village acts as a spiritual anchor, guiding his community through the challenges and blessings of life on Stromboli. According to tradition, relics of Saint Bartholomew once graced the nearby island of Lipari before being transferred to Benevento, where they remain enshrined. Though the relics no longer reside in proximity, their historical journey continues to inspire the faithful of Stromboli, who draw strength from shared traditions and the sacred balance they perceive between themselves and the volcano. This faith, shaped by the ever-present mountain, is a profound testament to their enduring connection to forces greater than themselves. Through these shared symbols and traditions, the islanders forge a spiritual bond that endures even amidst the challenges posed by their volcanic home.
Life on Stromboli was once deeply intertwined with its natural rhythms, as the islanders built their lives around the volcano’s gifts and challenges. The volcanic soil, enriched by countless eruptions, provided a natural fertility that sustained crops and vineyards, yet it also carried risks. The fertile soil nourished terraces of olives, citrus groves, and vineyards, while the sea provided abundant fish to sustain the community. Daily life was steeped in tradition, with villagers passing down knowledge of the land and its ways through generations. However, the unpredictable nature of the soil, sometimes fertile, sometimes resistant to cultivation, added an element of uncertainty to their livelihoods, encouraging a delicate blend of resourcefulness and prudence in their agricultural efforts. Yet, this idyllic existence was fraught with uncertainty, as the mountain’s eruptions could erase their hard work in moments. This duality of creation and destruction permeates the islanders’ experience, forcing them to continuously adapt and reimagine their ways of living.
The arrival of the phylloxera pest in the late 19th and early 20th centuries further devastated the island’s agriculture. This tiny but destructive insect ravaged Stromboli’s vineyards, decimating grape production and undermining one of the island’s key sources of livelihood. The loss of viticulture not only affected the local economy but also disrupted the cultural fabric of the community, as winemaking had been a generational tradition. Many families, unable to recover from the economic blow, found themselves compelled to leave the island in search of more stable opportunities.
Over the 20th century, waves of emigration began to reshape Stromboli’s population. Economic hardship, coupled with the relentless danger posed by the volcano, drove many to seek safer and more prosperous lives elsewhere. The devastation caused by major eruptions, such as the one in 1930, left scars not only on the land but also on the spirit of its people. Younger generations left for the mainland or abroad, drawn by opportunities that the isolated island could no longer provide. By mid-century, Stromboli’s vibrant communities had dwindled, leaving behind a quieter, more reflective population that remained deeply tied to the island’s spirit.
Beneath the visible slopes of Stromboli lies an even greater mass, hidden beneath the Tyrrhenian Sea. The volcano’s submarine portion extends over two thousand metres below the waterline, making it a towering structure when measured from its true base. This submerged part is a silent testament to the volcano’s ancient origins, where its eruptions began eons ago under immense oceanic pressure. The underwater cliffs and deposits are remnants of countless eruptions, and they shape the marine ecosystem around Stromboli, creating habitats teeming with life. This submerged behemoth remains an integral yet often unseen part of the island’s identity, influencing both its geological stability and the livelihoods of its people.
The interconnectedness of land and sea highlights how deeply the volcano influences every aspect of life on Stromboli, both visible and hidden.
During my own ascent towards the Sciara del Fuoco, the volcano’s perpetual wound, I observed the settlement below, its illumination resembling votive offerings against the encroaching darkness. The summit presented an extraordinary spectacle: incandescent material projecting into the night sky, creating a display simultaneously terrifying and mesmerising, embodying the islanders’ unwavering faith.
To ascend Stromboli’s slopes is to step into a world that feels otherworldly yet deeply human. As the path winds past abandoned terraces and ascends into the blackened scars of old lava flows, the air grows thick with the acrid tang of sulphur. The summit reveals a scene of primal chaos and beauty. Fiery eruptions light up the night sky, and molten rock arcs against a backdrop of stars. The ground trembles, the air vibrates, and the senses are overwhelmed. In these moments, it becomes clear why the islanders view the volcano as something more than a geological feature. It is alive, a force that connects the heavens and the earth.
Stromboli is one of seven islands in the Aeolian archipelago, a chain of volcanic peaks rising from the Tyrrhenian Sea. The islands derive their name from Aeolus, the ancient Greek god of the winds, who was said to dwell here, harnessing the sea breezes that shaped both myth and mariner lore. These islands, each distinct in character, share a common origin rooted in fire and tectonic forces.
Among them, Lipari is the largest, with its historical ties and bustling port, while Vulcano, true to its name, offers vivid geothermal activity. Salina, known for its verdant landscapes and wine production, contrasts with the stark beauty of Panarea, the smallest yet most cosmopolitan of the group. Filicudi and Alicudi, remote and untamed, evoke a sense of timeless isolation, while Stromboli stands apart, its restless spirit visible in the perpetual plume of its volcano.
This archipelago is not only a geographical marvel but a cultural crossroads where history, mythology, and geology converge. The volcanic origins of the islands have moulded their fertility, culture, and the very stories of their people, anchoring them in an identity that bridges the earthly and the divine.
Stromboli is not merely an island; it is a sacred realm, a place where the land itself is a manifestation of the divine. For its people, faith is inseparable from their volcanic home. They do not see the mountain as something to fear but as a presence to honour, a companion in life’s journey, as mercurial as it is magnificent.
To visit Stromboli is to witness a dialogue between humanity and the Earth, a conversation spoken in ash, lava, and prayer. The island teaches us that faith is not only about what we believe but about how we live in harmony with the forces that shape us. In Stromboli, the land is God, and the people’s lives are a testament to this profound truth. Here, amidst fire and faith, one finds not only a sense of place but a deeper understanding of the divine.
Please read Oppenheimer, C. (2023). Mountains of fire: The menace, meaning, and magic of volcanoes. Pegasus Books.
